Mulethi (Licorice) for Skin: Benefits for Pigmentation and How to Use It
Mulethi β licorice root, Glycyrrhiza glabra β is an Ayurvedic herb used on skin for pigmentation and irritation. Its two studied compounds, glabridin and liquiritin, interfere with melanin production and help disperse existing pigment. As a standardised extract in a formula it has real evidence behind it; as raw kitchen powder in a face pack, results are far less predictable.
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Explore the 10% Niacinamide Brightening Serum βWhat is mulethi and why is it used on skin?
Mulethi is the dried root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a legume grown across northern India, Iran and southern Europe. In Ayurveda it is classified as a cooling, pitta-pacifying herb (yashtimadhu), used internally for the throat and digestion and externally in pastes for irritated or uneven skin. Modern cosmetic chemistry took an interest for a specific reason: licorice root extract contains a handful of flavonoids that act directly on the pigment pathway.
The two that matter are glabridin, concentrated in the root's oily fraction, and liquiritin, a water-soluble glycoside. They do different jobs, which is why extract quality varies so much between products.
How does mulethi work on pigmentation?
Melanin production runs through an enzyme called tyrosinase. Glabridin inhibits that enzyme, so less new pigment is made in response to sun, friction or inflammation. Liquiritin works further downstream β it helps disperse melanin that has already formed, so existing patches look less concentrated. A third component, glycyrrhizin, is anti-inflammatory, which matters because inflammation is what triggers most post-acne and post-injury darkening on Indian skin in the first place.
That combination β block new pigment, disperse old pigment, calm the trigger β is why licorice appears in so many pigmentation formulas. It sits in the same functional family as kojic acid, alpha arbutin and niacinamide, each intervening at a slightly different point. Our comparison of niacinamide vs vitamin C is useful context for how these mechanisms differ.
What can mulethi realistically do?
| Claim | Evidence | Realistic expectation |
|---|---|---|
| Fades sun spots and post-acne marks | Reasonable β glabridin and liquiritin both studied on melasma and UV-induced pigment | Gradual evening of tone over 8β12 weeks with a standardised extract |
| Calms redness and irritation | Reasonable β glycyrrhizin has documented anti-inflammatory activity | Useful supporting ingredient in soothing formulas |
| Antioxidant support | Reasonable in lab conditions | Contributory, not a replacement for sunscreen |
| Whitens skin or changes your complexion | None | Pigmentation can be evened; base skin tone does not change |
| Clears active acne | Weak | May calm inflammation; does not unclog pores |
Read that last row carefully. Mulethi addresses the mark acne leaves, not the breakout itself. Clearing congestion still needs an exfoliating acid β our guide to acne marks vs acne scars separates the two problems.
Mulethi powder at home: what actually happens
Kitchen mulethi powder is dried, ground root. It is not a standardised extract, so the concentration of glabridin varies enormously by harvest, storage and grind β and glabridin is oil-soluble, which means a water-and-powder paste extracts very little of it in the twenty minutes it sits on your face. That is the honest limitation of the DIY route: the active is present in the jar, but mostly not delivered to the skin.
If you want to try it anyway, a sensible version: half a teaspoon of mulethi powder mixed with plain yoghurt or honey into a smooth paste, applied to clean skin, left for 10β15 minutes, rinsed with lukewarm water, used once or twice a week. Never leave it overnight, never combine it with lemon juice, and always patch test on the inner forearm for 24 hours first β our guide on how to patch test explains why this matters more with plant material than with a formulated product.
Is mulethi safe on the face?
Topically, licorice extract is well tolerated in cosmetic use and is one of the gentler pigmentation actives β a common reason it is chosen for sensitive skin. Contact reactions do happen with any botanical, which is what the patch test is for.
Ingested mulethi is a different question. Large or prolonged oral doses of licorice root can affect potassium levels and blood pressure through glycyrrhizin, so mulethi tea or churna taken daily over long periods is not something to self-prescribe, particularly if you have hypertension, kidney concerns, or are pregnant. Speak to a physician first. This piece is about topical use.
Mulethi vs the alternatives
Among pigmentation ingredients, licorice is gentle and slow. Niacinamide at 10% has stronger evidence and a broader effect β it blocks melanin transfer, regulates sebum and supports the barrier at the same time. Kojic acid and alpha arbutin are more targeted tyrosinase inhibitors. In practice these are combined rather than ranked β licorice earns its place as a soothing partner in a formula, not as the sole active.
Licorice extract also appears in our Acne Relief Body Wash, where it works alongside 2% salicylic acid, niacinamide, tea tree and neem β there specifically to even the tone that body breakouts leave behind.
How to read a licorice product label
Because potency varies so much between preparations, the label tells you more than the marketing does. Look for Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract listed by its INCI name rather than a vague "herbal blend", and prefer formulas that state a standardised glabridin content β anything from 0.1% to 0.5% glabridin in the finished product is meaningful. Position in the ingredient list matters too: a botanical sitting after the fragrance and preservatives is present in trace amounts.
Also check what it is paired with. Licorice is at its most useful as a supporting act next to a primary active such as niacinamide or an acid, so a formula that combines them will usually outperform a single-herb extract on its own. And keep sunscreen in the routine throughout β every pigmentation ingredient is working against fresh UV exposure, and without SPF you are refilling the tank as fast as you empty it.
Frequently asked questions
Can mulethi lighten my skin tone?
No. It can help even out pigmentation β dark spots, patches, post-acne marks β but it does not change the skin tone you were born with.
How long does mulethi take to work?
With a standardised extract used daily, 8β12 weeks. Occasional face packs are unlikely to produce a measurable change.
Can I use mulethi with niacinamide or vitamin C?
Yes, they are compatible and work at different points of the pigment pathway. Introduce one at a time so you can tell what your skin is responding to.
Is mulethi the same as manjistha?
No. Both are Ayurvedic herbs used for skin, but manjistha (Rubia cordifolia) is used inside-out as an ingestible, while mulethi is most often applied topically. See manjistha for pigmentation.
Can I leave mulethi paste on overnight?
No. Extended contact raises irritation risk without improving results.